3 - Remove dirt with warm leather Brush
b 
otes in depth so that the leather can breathe again and revive their properties. See how water is immediately absorbed by the leather. The mild soap and warm water is often a good substitute for specialized cleaning products and can also be used to clean stencils.
Now the leather is in a state without protection. 4 - To protect the skin of water, should be waterproofed clean boots still have "pores" and absorb more water due to the application of cleaning products for washing. To "close" the pores of the leather back, a special spray (
Nikwax , etc.) Impregnation must first be applied while still wet.
leather impregnation prevents absorption of water, but the leather retains its properties even breathing. Smooth leather or waxed are easier care for the nubuck or suede and more resistant to water and dirt.
5 - to apply cream or wax regularly to maintain and protect the leather A
at once the boots have been impregnated with a waterproof spray should also regularly receive a hand cream or emulsion Wax and these be rubbed or polished in them (with a brush), especially when they have a steep or prolonged exposure to water. The water with dirt, dragged some of the properties of leather. If these substances are not replaced in an artificial way, the leather is dried and eventually becomes brittle (The leather boot would be irreparable and the tough leather is not flexible and pull against the seam), which is why a
cream or wax
is advisable to re-hydrate.
or
Using 
No hair dryer to generate some heat, can enhance the absorption of the cream into the leather. The only genuine leather holds its shape and remains flexible and resilient when more products are being used for the care of it.
After the cream or wax is applied, the boots should have enough time to dry. Never put the boots to dry on a radiator near the oven, on a windshield of a car, in the trunk, etc.. The wet leather is "Burn" (it becomes brittle and shrinks) with ease. This often results in irreparable tears on the surface, particularly where wrinkles are formed when walking (folds). The hooks and rivets are also involved in this bad effect by contributing to the tension in the footwear and damage if it is dried artificially. It is best to leave the shoes away from sources of heat or sun in a well ventilated area.
6 - Using creams nubuck and suede boots n
obuck and suede that have had wide use, should also be washed with water and then treated so they will not dry out. Here also recommend using a cream or
wax-based liquid , which can be applied with a sponge. This type of creams are more liquid and less prone to clogged pores and texture of leather creams with a high wax content. The leather lining, must also be maintained with a lotion or moisturizer, as it suffers an aggressive foot perspiration due to the salts it contains, which dry out, harden and become brittle to the inner lining. If the lining is Gore-Tex, this requires no special care other than washing with conventional soap and water, because if it is dirty, the impermeable membrane will lose its effect.
7 - The use of fats and oils fats, and especially oil, make the leather is very flexible and virtually waterproof, but the structure of the boot is compromised if the pores of the leather is closed, which means it is no longer respirable (the effect rubber boot ¨ ¨), with a consequent greater internal condensation.
8 - Maintain the appearance of nubuck and suede A visual effects or aesthetic
, please note that the surface of nubuck and suede leather becomes smooth and shiny (darker) when used cream. Use a soft brush to rub the wax cream thoroughly. Brushing also generates heat, that helps with the absorption of the cream into the leather, leaving it less bright and with a texture similar to the original. Before applying these products, always test in a hidden area of \u200b\u200bthe shoe (ie tab) to see if the texture is pleasing.
a wire suede brush can be used to lift the skin of the chamois again (that was blocked by wax application) but never have exactly the same appearance when it was new. This is not necessary in smooth leather.
The image clearly shows the difference between the surface planed and not planed. Once
q ue the wax has been absorbed by the leather boots again should be treated with a waterproofing agent (
Scotchgard,
Nikwax , etc.). The waterproofing agent will not have full effect until 24 hours after it is applied. Using (2-3 weeks) the waterproofing also loses some of its effect. The ideal is to try the boots one day before use.
leather impregnation retains ownership of the leather to breathe. The leather does not absorb water only, but also be less prone to dirt itself is sticking to it. In addition, the wax layer also prevents sharp stones or rock walls, during a trekking or climbing damage the leather. Dry scalp on the other hand is easier to crack and damage faster.
- Testing procedure care real leather boots are
If 
well waxed and treated water will form droplets as shown in the picture. This means that the leather is well protected. If the boots are successful in this test, then you can congratulate itself on the proper care you have given to the leather. Remember that the type of care you give them your boots can significantly prolong their useful life.
- Storing boots
The best place to keep the leather boots in a bag or shoe box in a dry and well ventilated. A wooden mold
will help maintain its shape during storage and prevent folds in the leather. Never store wet boots in damp rooms or in the car. These may be mold, mildew and even rot the leather.
If your boots are still wet, we recommend placing newspaper inside, specifically the toe especially. The paper absorbs moisture and helps keep the shape. The newspaper should be changed every day until the boots are dry.
The use of spray disinfectant, deodorant and foot spray fungicides is recommended to prevent growth of fungi and especially smell. Pedic not use powder as it accumulates in the inner folds of the boot gets wet and carries dirt and odor. 
regularly 
